French health authorities reiterated on Thursday, January 23, that they should not use hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid because they can cause acute kidney failure, and they want the European Union to decide to limit, or even ban, this substance in cosmetics.
In mid-October, the National Agency for Food Safety, Environmental and Occupational Health (ANSES) advised hairdressers and individuals against the use of so-called Brazilian straightening products, and companies against their sale.
The ANSES then acted as a precaution, pending the conclusions of an expert opinion, after three reports of serious adverse effects in women who underwent Brazilian straightening at a hair salon.
In an opinion published on Thursday and also based on scientific studies, the agency considers it “highly probable” that glyoxylic acid has caused these three cases of acute kidney failure: when it passes into the bloodstream through the scalp, it is transformed into crystals of calcium oxalate, damaging the skin. kidney.
Unregulated or limited use
For this reason, ANSES recommends carrying out a risk assessment at the European level, “to limit or even prohibit the use of this substance”, whose content can reach up to 25% in hair care.
It also wants other products to be identified that can “degrade into glyoxylic acid” and “likely release formaldehyde, a carcinogenic substance, during the hair heating phase.”
Once the French authorities transmit this opinion, the European Commission must refer the matter to its scientific committee for consumer safety (CSSC), the only one authorized to regulate the use of a substance through the European regulation on cosmetics.
To date, glyoxylic acid has never been evaluated at EU level and its use is neither regulated nor limited.
Acute kidney failure
On the other hand, in Israel, hair straightening products that contain glyoxylic acid have been banned since 2022, “but not those that contain derivatives,” specifies ANSES.
In this country, from 2019 to 2022, 26 cases of severe acute renal failure following the use of hair straightening products (causing abdominal and lower back pain, nausea, vomiting, skin rashes) were identified and were considered attributable to this substance.
As in France, after rehydration of the patients, kidney function returned to normal.
Glyoxylic acid is also used in the composition of cleaning and furniture products (in particular, it inhibits corrosion) or tanning products.
Source: BFM TV
