In the disaster-stricken Charente territory, historic sneaker manufacturers and ambitious buyers compete for a high-end market that is in decline after a surge in orders during the pandemic.
In the heart of Angoulême, on a cobblestone street overlooking the imposing courthouse, Olivier Rondinaud unpacks boxes full of Charentaise cheeses. “These went to the Elysée,” he says, pointing to the tricolor model that represented Charente in the Made in France exhibition, displayed on the Internet for 49.90 euros.
Constantly interrupted by curious passersby, impatient for the imminent opening of his new store, the heir to the family brand does not miss the opportunity to talk about traditions.
He even invites Breton tourists to visit the Rondinaud workshop, 25 kilometers away. It is one of the last bastions of “sew and turn”, an artisanal technique that has made the Charentais slipper famous. “We see that people are returning to something authentic,” he rejoices.
The high range attracts more than before
The renewed interest in high-end sneakers has not gone unnoticed by the French Footwear Federation (FFC), which launches the first edition of its sneaker day on Saturday. For Clémentine Colin Richard, its president, it is above all about promoting an “emotional” product, which represents between 25% and 30% of footwear manufacturing in the country.
Sneakers priced above 30 euros represent 20% of purchases in France since January, that is, seven percentage points more than in 2019, according to a study by the FFC.
A blessing for a French sneaker industry harmed by Asian competition (China, Vietnam) and in rivalry with Italian, Spanish or German brands.
Customers are looking for products made in France.
In the textile basin of Charente and Périgord, where several historic shoemakers have closed, other companies have recovered. Pierre Longueville joined forces with his son Quentin in 2021 to take the reins of the DM Production company, in Montbron. In addition to the Charentaises, the workshop offers a large collection of mules, slippers, tap shoes and ballet flats.
“At first it was complicated because we did not have human resources to manage orders, so we had to show a lot of diplomacy with customers,” says the commercial director, who mainly produces private label for mass distribution.
DM Production trained and hired 10 people and then expanded rapidly focusing on “made in France”. Small blue, white and red flags now adorn the vast majority of the 1,500 pairs that leave the workshop daily, while only two customers requested this addition in 2021.
The company wants to advance by developing its brand of Esperluette sneakers, while continuing to supply the purchasing centers of Carrefour, Leclerc, Auchan, Système U and other specialized distributors such as Gémo or Besson.
From 40,000 to 600 pairs per day
Atelier Rondinaud has moved away from mass distribution, preferring to work with a network of 500 city center retailers or directly with the consumer through its new website.
From 40,000 pairs produced daily by 1,250 employees in the boom years, the workshop now produces 600 per day with a team of 16 people, who at the moment have no plans to grow. First we must overcome the current crisis, explains the manager, who notes a “settlement” of orders in 2024, after a particularly mild winter.
DM Production, for its part, mentions an “air gap” that began in 2023 and continued until 2024.
Source: BFM TV